Emilia Romagna suggested itineraries

Our itinerary exploring the art and cuisine of Emilia commences at Fontanellato, a town of circa 6000 inhabitants, just a few kilometers away from Parma. Of immediate impact, the imposing Rocca Sanvitale. Encircled by a deep moat, this massive edifice with crenulated tower on each of its four corners is one of the region's most beautiful castles. Its interiors are adorned with splendid artworks including a magnificent cycle of frescoes painted by Parmigianino in the 16th century. A series of porticoes skirting the edifice have been transformed in unique spaces occupied by charming little restaurants, shops, and cafes. Fontanellato is the destination of numerous pilgrimages culminating at the Beata Vergine del Rosario Sanctuary, situated just outside the historic center. Extensive restoration work has brought the 17th century sanctuary, complete with neo-baroque façade and statues, back to its original splendour.

At San Secondo Parmense, just a few kilometers from Fontanellato, it is the Rocca dei Rossi to first catch the visitor's eye. The castle is named after the Rossi family who commissioned the building of an edifice which would function both as elegant residence and defensive fort to protect the town center. Very little remains of the original nucleus, subject of numerous alterations made by the descendants of Pier Maria Rossi. In 1983, an earthquake caused considerable damage to the building, making extensive restructuring necessary. Today, guided tours of the castle are held on a regular basis, assisted by performers dressed in historic costumes. In the first week of June, the Rocca provides the stage for a traditional Palio contested among the various districts of the town, and the theatrical representation of the marriage between Pier Maria III Rossi and Camilla Gonzaga, originally celebrated in the distant 1523.

Those wishing to experience another journey back in time, should not fail to visit the Reggia di Colorno, situated just a few kilometers North of Parma. Known as the "Versailles of Bassa" for its sumptuous appearance and the aristocratic air which it continues to exude, the Reggia was the summer residence of the court of the Dukedom of Parma and Piacenza. It was constructed at the start of the 18th century by Duke Francesco Farnese on the site of a pre-existing fort. Nominated Imperial Palace by Napoleon, today the Reggia di Colorno is surrounded by splendid English gardens and fountains. Inside the palace, the great salons recount a past characterised by the most extravagant luxury.

Our next destination is that of Zibello, home of the "culatello", a famous cold meat much loved by the writer Giovannino Guareschi, born in this area of Emilia. So as to maintain the quality, characteristics and superb taste of the meat, culatello is made exclusively in the cold winter period from October to February, when the plains are more often than not covered by a thick blanket of fog. The town of Zibello is located just moments away from the Po, the most famous of Italy's rivers, which can easily be reached by bike along a series of purpose built cycle paths. On the banks of the Po one finds the small town of Polesine Parmese, associated with the islets of mud which emerge from the flood waters and attach themselves to the river banks. From Zibello the road leads directly to Fidenza.

Half way along the 588 provincial highway, we come to Soragna, known for its production of the world famous Parmigiano Reggiano and home to a museum dedicated to the cheese.

Located between Parma and Piacenza, on the ancient Via Francigena pilgrim route, the city of Fidenza is the largest in the province of Parma. The cathedral is the best known of the city's Romanesque masterpieces. On the imposing and austere façade there are three especially interesting decorative portals, rich in sculptures. Amongst the numerous sculptures dating back to the 13th century, in the crypt of the cathedral, we find Benedetto Antelami's Madonna and Child.

Just moments away from Fidenza, lies Salsomaggiore Terme: the world famous spa town which for a number of years has hosted Italy's extremely popular Miss Italia competition. The town began to flourish towards the end of the 19th century and the numerous buildings in Italian Liberty style are testimony to this particularly prosperous period in Salsamaggiore's history. The wonderfully elegant Terme Berzieri, inaugurated in 1923 provides, arguably, the finest example of this much-loved architectural style.

Tabiano Bagni, close to Salsamaggiore, is another extremely popular thermal resort. Leader in Italy for spa therapies created to alleviate respiratory difficulties. Treatments involve the use of sulphurous waters among the richest in sulpha in the whole of Europe.

Following the provincial road which leads from Vigoleno to Castell'Arquato, we enter the territory of the Piacentino. Vigoleno, in Val d'Arda, 42kms from Piacenza, became famous during the Napoleonic dominion, for the resistance of the local farm workers against the much-feared French soldiers; perpetrators of endless violent misdeeds. This attractive medieval village is located next to Castell'Arquato, one of the most fascinating towns in the area. This is where to taste the Coppa Piacentina, a cylindrically shaped cold meat which represents one of the most highly acclaimed gastronomic specialities of the region.

Some 30 kilometers away, in the Val Trebbia, there is the town of Rivalta Trebbia, home to a miraculously intact medieval village and castle, the walls of which, for centuries, protected the town from attack. On the weekend, the castle is open to visitors.

From Rivalta, having passed Aguzzano, we come to Pianello Val Tidone, close to which lies one of the oldest fortified structures in the province of Piacenza. The Rocca d'Olgisio, dating back to 1037, enjoys a superb position dominating the Tidone and Chiarone torrents.